With the spring/summer women's shows in full swing, it seemed appropriate to look back to the men's presentations of the same season.
It’s not exactly new – think of the seminal look of John Travolta in Saturday Night Fever – but the white suit was everywhere this season, appearing on the runways of countless designers, both young and established, as a bright, fresh mirage. Of course, its most obvious incarnation was by tailoring houses, particularly in Milan, such as Giorgio and Emporio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and Ports 1961, but what made it really interesting was when it was designed in a more unstructured, casual way, imbuing the classic ensemble with a newness that is so craved at the seasonal collections. For his debut as artistic director of Ermenegildo Zegna, Stefano Pilati pulled apart the suit's structure, giving it a softer drape, a more languid line, while Jil Sander and Paul Surridge at Z Zegna (pictured at top) gave it sharp edges in firmer fabrics. Elsewhere, such as at Pringle of Scotland, Marni and Moncler, the blazer teamed with shorts was a boyish alternative.