Menswear

SS14 MENSWEAR COLLECTIONS: WHITE OUT

With the spring/summer women's shows in full swing, it seemed appropriate to look back to the men's presentations of the same season.

Emporio Armani.
Pringle of Scotland.
Lanvin by Lucas Ossendrijver.
Louis Vuitton by Kim Jones.

It’s not exactly new – think of the seminal look of John Travolta in Saturday Night Fever – but the white suit was everywhere this season, appearing on the runways of countless designers, both young and established, as a bright, fresh mirage. Of course, its most obvious incarnation was by tailoring houses, particularly in Milan, such as Giorgio and Emporio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and Ports 1961, but what made it really interesting was when it was designed in a more unstructured, casual way, imbuing the classic ensemble with a newness that is so craved at the seasonal collections. For his debut as artistic director of Ermenegildo Zegna, Stefano Pilati pulled apart the suit's structure, giving it a softer drape, a more languid line, while Jil Sander and Paul Surridge at Z Zegna (pictured at top) gave it sharp edges in firmer fabrics. Elsewhere, such as at Pringle of Scotland, Marni and Moncler, the blazer teamed with shorts was a boyish alternative.